Clean your wall and decide where you want to hang your Wall Mirror or Wall Clock and mark the point with a pencil. When drilling into walls always check there are no hidden wires or pipes. Make sure that the screws and wall plugs being used are suitable for supporting your unit. Consult a qualified tradesperson if you are unsure.

•  Do not use wire or string to hang this mirror.

•  We recommend two people to install heavy or large clocks.

•  We recommend checking the mirror periodically to see that no fittings or fixings have loosened or require attention.

•  Do not strike the mirror glass with hard pointed objects.

•  If the glass is chipped or broken do not use and dispose of safely.

•  Do not place hot or cold items against the glass.

Position your Wall Mirror or Clock and, if necessary, clean with a damp cloth to enhance the reflectiveness.

Please do not start without the right tools:
• Folding ruler, pencil and a spirit level – for the line-marking
• Spatula and priming material for the surface (the wall)
• A sharp pair of scissors for tailoring the photo mural
• A wide paintbrush to spread the paste
• A foam roller to press the mural on the wall
• A good cutter knife to cut out the electrical outlets and light switches

The photo mural paper is relatively strong, but it cannot do wonders at the bridging of unevenness. So, in the end, the finished photo mural is just as good as the surface, and therefore you have to prepare it as good as possible. We recommend the removing of woodchip wallpapers – it works really easy with a wallpaper remover. Holes have to get filled; latex- and oil paints should be whetted. After the preparation, the perfect surface is even and uses absorbent to soak up the paste and warrant a good drying.

Even if the space is sometimes rare – you should always spread the fitting parts next to each other over the floor. In rare cases, a significant difference of the colours may appear (that sometimes happens at the mural producing) – then you can reclaim the mural, but only if it wasn’t cut and processed with paste. Please contact us immediately. It is in actual fact impossible that the size is differing. If two parts don’t fit dimensionally, then something didn’t work at plastering or soaking.

We deliver the paste with the most photo murals. The mixing ratio of paste and water is specified on the packing or the supplied manual. One last tip on budging: the best tool is a mixer – no clumps of paste. But don’t forget to clean it carefully.

The following sizes are possible for murals:
• 8 parts
• 6 parts
• 4 parts
• 4 parts – athwart
• 2 parts (door posters can also adhere on the wall)
• 1 part

The situation for the 1-parted, 2-parted, 4-parted and 6-parted murals is obvious – you can put the parts arbitrary on the wall, so we explain the procedure for the 8-parted wallpapers. After recording the mural’s exact position, you draw a horizontal and vertical line in the middle of each side of the wall with the spirit level and the pencil. As a profile, you have to turn around the spirit level and look if the bubble is even for both directories – if not, you have to replace old spirit level.

You paste the backside of the first part evenly but not too thick – the first part of the 8-parted murals is part no. 4. Please also paste the edges very particularly.
Important: The pasted element is not permitted to soak. After circa one minute it has to get pressed on the wall. Otherwise, the size would change and the other parts don’t fit correctly. If you hire a painter, please show these tips to him before the beginning of the work.

You begin with part no. 4 (sub-row, the second part from left) as we mentioned before.
Benefit: You avoid problems with non-rectangular walls, and small mistakes don’t sum up so much. You adjust the element on the drawn lines and even it with the foam roller. We work outwards from the middle, the air under the mural leaks on the sides. The odd paste gets dabbed carefully with smooth clout.
Warning: Our machining manual refers to the numbering of the elements, as indicated in the image below. Some photo wallpapers have a different numbering, for example, 1-4 in the upper and 5-8 in the inferior row.

The next element which gets to put on the wall is part no. 3. The mural gets slightly shorter when it dries, so you have to overlap the parts for circa 2 mm. Smaller air bubbles disappear when the mural gets dry.

You proceed with the elements no. 6, 2 and 8 from sub-row. After this, the upper row follows with the parts no. 5, 1 and 7. The best temperature for the drying is circa 20°C. As always at wallpapering works you have to mind that no draught appears – even the air gets a little bit thick, the window stays closed. If supernatant edges appear, you cut them on the next day- the perfect wall cover is finished.

Please do not start without the right tools:
• Folding ruler, pencil and a spirit level – for the line-marking
• Spatula and priming material for the surface (the wall)
• A sharp pair of scissors for tailoring the door mural
• A wide paintbrush to spread the paste
• A foam roller to press the mural on the wall
• A good cutter knife to cut out the electrical outlets and light switches

At first, prepare your door. It should be clean, free of unevenness. The photo mural paper is relatively strong, but it cannot do wonders at the bridging of unevenness. So, in the end, the finished photo mural is just as good as the surface, and therefore you have to prepare it as good as possible. After the preparation, the perfect surface is even and uses absorbent to soak up the paste and warrant a good drying.

We deliver the paste with the most photo murals. The mixing ratio of paste and water is specified on the packing or the supplied manual. One last tip on budging: the best tool is a mixer – no clumps of paste. But don’t forget to clean it carefully.

We deliver the paste with the most photo murals. The mixing ratio of paste and water is specified on the packing or the supplied manual. One last tip on budging: the best tool is a mixer – no clumps of paste. But don’t forget to clean it carefully.

You paste the backside of the first part evenly but not too thick – the first part of the 8-parted murals is part no. 4. Please also paste the edges very particularly.
Important: The pasted element is not permitted to soak. After circa one minute it has to get pressed on the wall. Otherwise, the size would change, and the other parts won’t fit correctly. If you hire a painter, please show these tips to him before the beginning of the work.

Now you can mount the pieces of photo mural from top to bottom and flatten each piece from the upper to the lower side while pressing out the air between photo mural and your door to the sides. The following sizes are possible for door murals: 2 parts & 3 parts

Cut the door mural on the position of the door handle and mantle it. We recommend to work at room temperature and try to avoid any drafts from open windows. The drying process must happen slowly. When the door mural is dry, you have the possibility to cut out the overlaying edges with a cutter.